"The effects and precautions of lining a ring: A complete guide to the pros and cons"

20th August 2024
「指輪の裏抜きの効果と注意点:メリット・デメリット完全ガイド」

Rings are accessories that combine beauty and practicality, but high-end jewelry in particular has ingenuity even in the parts that cannot be seen. One of these techniques is "backing," a processing method that creates a cavity inside the ring, which has many advantages, such as cost performance, but also some disadvantages. In this article, we will explain in detail the reasons for backing rings, as well as their advantages and disadvantages.



table of contents

1. What is ring backing?
2. Reasons for back-stabbing
3. Benefits of back-drawing
4. Disadvantages of back-cutting
5. Summary

1. What is ring backing?

Lab-grown diamond ring




This time, I will be talking about "lining" rings, which I think some of you may be hearing about for the first time.



"Backing out" is a processing method used on rings, earrings, necklaces, brooches, etc., in which the base metal on the back is engraved. Backing out a ring is a processing method in which a cavity is created on the inside of the ring, which is mainly done to lighten the weight of the ring and reduce the amount of precious metal used.



To put it simply, some of the metal on the inside of the ring is removed to create a small cavity or indentation in the part that cannot be seen. Like light holes, hollowing out the ring affects how comfortable it is to wear. Also, since dirt can easily accumulate in the large grooves, it is not necessarily a necessary process, but it is often used to make the ring look beautiful, and to maintain breathability and a moderate weight.



Ring back illustration

For rings, we generally "back out" the top of the ring (from the side to the top of the ring). Because the bottom of the ring may be cut off during sizing and the side of the ring is where the engraving is stamped, we do not back out the entire ring or all the way to the bottom.

Also, since wedding rings and engagement rings are worn for a long time, it is important that they feel luxurious as well as smooth on the finger, so there are not many designs that are lined. However, there are many designs that are lined, such as wide fashion rings and large brooches and earrings.

Is it necessary to make holes for light (backing/light removal) on your ring? A shop specializing in lab-grown diamonds explains the concerns about "shine and dirt."




2. Reasons for back-stabbing



Ring backing 6



As mentioned briefly at the beginning, one of the main reasons for hollowing out a ring is to reduce the weight of the base metal .

 

When comparing jewelry, some items with similar designs can have prices that differ by tens to hundreds of thousands of yen. There are many reasons for this difference, but in the case of jewelry, the weight of the precious metal affects the price, so even differences in the amount of bullion can result in price differences.

 

The cost of jewelry is the type of precious metal (price per gram, such as gold, platinum, silver, etc.) x weight + labor cost , so when adjusting the cost to match the design and price range desired , processing such as hollowing out the back or adding light holes is added.

In addition, the weight of jewelry when you hold it in your hand is just as important as its appearance. If it is too light, it will feel cheap, and if it has been hollowed out to the point where it is flimsy when viewed from the back, it will be weak. On the other hand, if it is heavy, your fingers will get tired and it will not be comfortable to wear. Therefore, hollowing out does not necessarily mean that the product is of poor quality. Hollowing is the process of removing excess base metal while retaining an appropriate weight .




Signet Ring

*Backing may also be used on rings with designs that have a difference in thickness between the top and bottom, such as signet rings. This is because during the casting process, in which molten metal is poured into a ring mold, metal may not flow well when there is an extreme difference in thickness , so backing is also used when you want to make the thickness uniform without causing casting defects.



3. Benefits of back-drawing


Ring with backing and light hole processing illustration


There are three major benefits to having your ring hollowed out. They are improved cost performance, freedom of design, and increased sparkle for the gemstone. These are points that we are very happy about, so we would like to explain them in detail.

Improved cost performance : As we have already mentioned, by hollowing out the ring, the amount of metal used is reduced, which reduces the manufacturing cost. This allows you to purchase a high-quality ring at a very affordable price.



Freedom of design : By hollowing out the ring, you can increase the freedom of design. For example, for items using large gemstones or for some designs, hollowing out the ring can reduce the weight and price. This allows you to use the budget for other designs, so you can create more of the design you want and increase the variety. Another benefit is that hollowing out the ring can reduce the weight and make it lighter to wear.

 

Increased brilliance of gemstones : The hollowed-out ring allows light to penetrate the ring from the inside, enhancing the brilliance of the gemstones. In particular, for diamonds and other gemstones with high transparency, the increased reflection and refraction of light maximizes the beauty of the gemstones.



4. Disadvantages of back-cutting


ring


While there are advantages and disadvantages to having a ring with a hollowed out design , if you keep this in mind, you will be able to choose a ring with a good hollowed out design.



Reduced strength : While hollowing out the ring reduces its weight, it also carries the risk of reducing its strength. Especially when wearing the ring on a daily basis, it may become less durable against external shocks and pressure, so care must be taken when hollowing out the ring, especially in areas with fine designs or thin parts.

Difficulty in maintenance : Having a hollow ring can make it easier for dirt and dust to accumulate. Especially for rings with intricate designs or many hollow parts, daily maintenance can be difficult, so regular cleaning is required, which requires specialized knowledge and skills.



Limited customization : Rings that have been hollowed out may be more difficult to resize or change the design later. There may be restrictions on adding metal to increase size or changing the design, so you should consider future customization options when purchasing a ring.




5. Summary

Lab-grown Diamond Ring 2


Ring backing is an important process for achieving both beauty and practicality. However, while it has the advantages of saving material, reducing weight, and improving comfort, it also has the disadvantages of reduced strength and difficulty in maintenance.

The next time you choose a ring, be sure to understand not only the design but also the advantages and disadvantages of hollow rings to find one that suits you.

Also, at BRIGHT & BREEZY You can order custom-made jewelry using lab-grown diamonds. We put our customers' requests first, and our experienced concierges, jewelry designers, and craftsmen will help turn your ideas into reality. We can also discuss ring backing designs, so please feel free to contact us.

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